If your handle feels blocky after adding an overgrip on top of the stock grip, the common fix is to remove the factory grip and use two overgrips. The catch? Two overgrips can make the bevels uneven or overly pronounced (especially when the second layer sits on the first layer’s ridges), and you’ll also lose that plush, cushioned feel the original grip provides.
My go-to solution, borrowed from my badminton days and easy on the wallet, is to rebuild the handle with prewrap (or thin cushion wrap) plus a thin overgrip. This combo keeps uniform, single bevels, restores a cushiony feel, cuts bulk, and lets you fine-tune thickness for smaller hands, perfect for badminton or table-tennis converts.
Why do this?
Most pickleball handles are essentially one size (≈ 4.25"). Add a single overgrip and you’re around 4⅜", which is too large for many players. Badminton and table tennis players often prefer slimmer handles for quicker reflexes and wristy play.
Removing the stock grip and rebuilding with lighter layers can deliver:
- A smaller circumference without the hard, boxy feel
- Crisper bevels for better orientation and roll
- Custom tack/dryness/cushion to match your preference
- Equal or greater cushioning, depending on how much cushion wrap you use
⚠️ Heads-up: Most of the brands see grip removal as cosmetic; others may raise warranty concerns. Proceed carefully and at your own risk. Don’t damage the pallet/throat, and you’re generally fine.
What you’ll need
- Prewrap (athletic underwrap) or thin cushion wrap/foam: Amazon Link
- $3.99 for two rolls; it will last a long time
- Thin overgrip (look for “thin” or “pro thin” variants; e.g., Tourna, Head Prime, Wilson Pro, Yonex AC148EX)
- Scissors + finishing tape (the little roll that comes with your overgrip)
- A ruler or calipers to check the circumference
Step-by-step
Remove the factory grip
- Locate the finishing tape near the handle, peel it back, and carefully unwrap the stock grip. Keep the angle gentle so you don’t lift any handle pallets.
- If there’s residual adhesive, rub it off with your thumb; for sticky spots, a tiny bit of isopropyl on a cloth helps.
- Preserve the butt cap: don’t pry it off; most are stapled/glued.
Pro tip: Keep the stock grip so you can revert or resell later.
Inspect the handle core
- You should see a beveled pallet (foam/wood/composite). Make sure it’s clean, dry, and intact.
- If any splinters or lifted foam are present, lightly sand the high spots and dust off.
(Optional) Lay a super-thin base
- Although optional, if you want, use electrical tape from the butt to the throat to have a super thin base
Add prewrap / cushion wrap
- Goal: create a uniform base that keeps the bevels but won’t balloon the size.
- If you want just a touch of cushion while keeping the handle slim, use one layer of 1 mm cushion wrap (or prewrap) with a light 25–30% overlap from the butt cap upward. Add layers as needed to fine-tune feel and thickness. If you want more cushion, add a second layer of cushion wrap and use ~50% overlap on each pass before applying the overgrip.
- Wrap from butt cap upward, applying steady, light tension and smoothing any wrinkles. Trim flush at the top.
Finish with an overgrip
- Start with the angled end at the butt cap lip.
- Wrap upwards in a consistent spiral with ~1/8–1/6 inch overlap (3–4 mm).
- Maintain even tension; too tight thins it out and shows ridges; too loose creates bubbles.
- Trim at the top and apply the finishing tape.
Dial in your size (quick guide)
You can estimate circumference changes like this:
- Factory original grip (PU): often adds ~0.15–0.2" circumference
- Thin overgrip: ~0.35–0.05" (bevel thickness) per layer (Tourna Dry and Megatac at 0.04 and most others are around 0.06/ 0.07)
- Prewrap/ Cushion Wrap (very thin): ~0.01–0.015" per layer (edge-to-edge)
Targets (starting from bare pallet ≈ ~3.9–4.0" typical):
- Want ~4–4.12" (very slim) → 1 layer prewrap + 1 thin overgrip
- Want ~4.25" (standard-ish but less blocky and more cushiony) → 2 layers of prewrap + 1 medium-thin overgrip
Measure smart: Wrap a string around the center of the handle once, mark the meeting point, then measure the string. Adjust layers accordingly.
Weight & balance notes (for the paddle nerds)
- Removing the stock PU grip typically drops 8 to 10 g from the handle.
- Rebuilding with prewrap + thin overgrip usually adds back ~4–6 g, often net-lower than stock.
- Less handle mass = slightly head-heavy (feels a touch head-heavier), which many counter with some weights like 2g each on the throat of the paddle. Or you can use 6-8 g at the butt (coin + tape).
Troubleshooting
- Ridges/steps you can feel → Reduce overlap, rewrap with steadier tension, or switch to a smoother/thinner overgrip.
- Too slick → Try a tackier overgrip, or a dry-feel (perforated) model if you sweat.
- Still too big → Remove base layer; run prewrap only + thinnest overgrip.
- Edges peeling → Use the included finishing tape; add a tiny bit of athletic tape at the start/end points.
Alternatives
- Try super-thin tennis replacement grips (rare, but some “Feather/Ultra-thin” models like Torna Pro Thin Replacement Grip exist) if you prefer a replacement-style feel over overgrip texture.
FAQ
Q: Will this void my warranty?
A: Usually not just for removing the grip, but brands differ. Don’t damage the pallet/throat, and you’re generally fine.
Q: Can I go back to stock?
A: Yep, keep the original grip. Clean the pallet and rewrap.
Q: Two-handed backhand?
A: Consider a slightly longer wrap up the throat for comfort, but keep the thickness modest so your top hand can lock in.
If you try this, post your before/after measurements, layer recipe, and how it changed control/countering. Also happy to suggest a wrap combo if you tell me your current circumference and target feel (tacky vs dry, firm vs cushioned). Happy Pickling.